Thursday, November 17, 2011

Culture Shock Stage Three

That’s what Eial calls my current state of mind. And I won’t defend myself too much, I am definitely distraught and my frustration levels are overflowing. I certainly don’t know what the definitions are for different stages of culture shock, but I think the description fits me well right now.

The culprit is our constant daily power outages. I’ve been trying to figure them out, to “work” with them, to “plan” for them. Yet they evade me every time like that annoying mosquito that keeps circling around you but you can’t get it no matter how hard you whack your electrified mosquito racquet.

Let me tell you why I hate power outages so much – they are very disruptive. You plan your day, you wake up early, you do all your morning chores dutifully. Three kids are off to school wearing clean clothes, they had  hot breakfast, and their lunch boxes got packed. You’re finally ready to start your day, and then “Boom”, everything comes to a halt. A sudden power outage… The kitchen stops – chutney grinder is not working, water filter is not working, the refrigerator starts thawing, the washing machine stops spinning. If you’re lucky and you had recently filled up your water tank, you’re in good shape. But on several occasions during one of the outages we did run out of water in the house. But the most annoying inconvenience is that my internet stops working! These are supposed to be my sacred hours when I can idle online, write emails, instant chat, blog, and simply follow random leads. Unfortunately on most days, no such luck.

When we first came to Madurai we used to get 2pm-4pm power outage, but the schedule has been changing every week or two. For the last couple weeks as soon as we approach 9am, sometimes even before the boys board their school van, we get a government mandated power outage. It should last two hours, but this week it’s been lasting three. That means that 9am-12pm, when all three kids are at school and I am chipper and productive, I find myself pretty much useless being at home. I can’t even use my power drill that I found with great difficulty, while the hardware salesman was rolling his eyes in disbelief that I would be purchasing such item. 

Last week I was so upset with the outage situation that I called my rickshaw driver to just get out of the house. My driver Mr. Kannan took me to town the scenic route.  He stopped by the river so I could snap some photos of the beautiful outline of Madurai and the river, full of raging waters. It's monsoon season and we've been getting a lot of rain.  When we first came to Madurai six weeks ago the river was mere spots of puddles, with cows grazing in the riverbed and dhobi wallahs (clothes washers) drying yards and yards of cloth stretched out directly on the ground. This fieldtrip to the market did cheer me up and I had a great time with my two faithful companions, Mutamma and Mr. Kannan.

Two-three hours later I was heading back home with my head full of big plans for the rest of the day. That’s when I stopped by my hardware guy to pick up an electric drill, which unfortunately he could not test because there was a power outage. “What do you mean?” I asked in disbelief, “The outage should have been over a while ago”, when it finally dawned on me. It was one of those days when we get a full day power outage. It happens once a month and it lasts 9am to 5pm. Here goes my plan to test my new toaster oven, as I was planning to bake cupcakes for a little girl named Sujitha, who was celebrating her fifth birthday. Sujitha is Mutamma’s granddaughter, but I guess I won’t be able to surprise her today.

Beside morning and monthly all-day outages, we also get an evening power outage. This one is the most difficult to gauge, as the start time is always floating. It can start any time from 3:30pm to 7:00pm, and can last from 30 minutes to two hours. In our household an evening power outage means that as soon as the lights and fans go out, we have three screaming kids in three different corners. We are scrambling to find flashlights, candles and matches. That means we can’t see, we can’t eat, and the kids can’t finish their homework. Worst of all, we have three little hungry mouths circling around the oven like little piranhas waiting for their pizza dinner.  Pizza will still come out, but we don't know when...

Most of the residents on our street are well-off middle class families. Their houses are equipped with Uninterrupted Power Supply, known here as UPS. Every time the lights go out in our house, all other houses are fine.  I was definitely interested in getting a UPS unit purchased and installed ASAP, but after doing some research I have my doubts. A UPS unit is an investment worth $400, but all it would give us is 5 lights, 4 fans and 1 computer. That means the kitchen would still be inoperable.  Now we are on to doing some research on generators, which would provide much more extensive power backup. Issues with power generators are that they are noisy and have carbon monoxide exhaust fumes. Will it be worth the investment and disturbing the peace of this quiet neighborhood? 

So here I am, finally in a place where simpler life I was seeking has finally become a reality. Yet I am so frustrated by the limitations it brings. Instead of going with it, I am tirelessly constructing a comfort bubble, so we forget all about the inconveniences experienced by every day Indians. I don't know what to say, except that internet and pizza are not optional in our family, it is our birthright.

Old part of town built around the Meenakshi temple is on the other side of the river

The river is full of water, a special sight for local people


Men are washing their motorcycles

Washer ladies

A fisherman is trying his luck with a net

A close-up of a washer lady

The main traffic flow crosses the river over the bridge, but on several occasions I got to ride under the bridge

The view of the river and downtown from under the bridge

Under the bridge there is shade and breeze all day long, it's a great place for a stroll



4 comments:

  1. WOW, Henrika, it is not easy!!! A reality shock!!! Think about reality show....
    Do you think that's America will like it???
    Love you all & Be strong...

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  2. Yes, I am slowly getting used to things here. Perhaps I am also getting tired of complaining because it's getting me nowhere...

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  3. I'm reading this a month after, so I'm wondering what if any solution you came up with. You've chronicled so many fantastic stories of your move to India that I find myself amazed at your wonderfully inquisitive, refreshingly honest and endearing view of every detail- along with your astounding adaptability and unique sense of humor about it all. But I suspect there is much that is hard to endure or at least become accustomed to, like the power outages, also. Well, I know you will be fine and I know it isn't all easy. But that's why you can do it. Not everyone could; but you can. So keep writing, complaints and all, whatever you do. I enjoy it so much.

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  4. The insane power outage schedule has something to do with the ruling party trying to get people's support for a new Russian-style nuclear power plant. I read so many stories in the paper about businesses and people's daily lives disrupted, and the article would always end "that's why we really need a new nuclear plant". Anyways, we bit the bullet and got a UPS battery installed last week. Now I have at least one light, one fan per room and a computer working at any time. Not bad! Other than that, we're making constant improvements to our life. I guess a year from now we will be in a good place! Trust me, there is a lot of complaining on my part, and my poor husband has to endure that every night. We did a lot of traveling lately, I will try to upload some pictures. Greetings to you all!

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